What it is
A superficial peel is a controlled chemical injury to the epidermis. The acid breaks the bonds holding dead corneocytes together, forcing an organized shed and a faster turnover cycle behind it. That resets rough texture, spreads melanin more evenly, and unclogs pores. Depth is controlled by the acid, its concentration, its pH, and how long it sits before neutralizing; superficial means the wound stays in the epidermis.
Acid choice is mechanism choice. Salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, so it follows sebum down into the pore, which is why it earns its keep in acne. Glycolic acid is water-soluble and works the surface: tone, texture, and fine lines. Which acid, at what strength, gets decided by Dr. Mueller in the room, not by a menu.
Expectations, plainly: superficial peels work as a series, typically 3 to 6, and the change is gradual. They will not lift indented acne scars, which need RF microneedling or laser resurfacing, and they will not shrink pores permanently. What they reliably do is smooth texture, fade post-acne marks, and cut active breakouts, at the lowest price on this menu.
When a peel series fits
- Active comedonal or inflammatory acne, alone or alongside prescription treatment.
- Post-acne dark marks that linger for months after the pimple is gone.
- Rough, dull texture that makeup sits on badly.
- Uneven tone you want improved gradually, without any days at home.
- You are on isotretinoin or a retinoid and want in-office care that current evidence still permits.
What happens, step by step
- 1
Intake happens online
History, photos, and a phone consult come before the visit; the exam itself is in person.
- 2
The exam
At the first visit Antoaneta Mueller, MD looks at your skin in person and picks the acid, concentration, and contact time.
- 3
Degrease and apply
Skin is cleansed and degreased, then the acid goes on for 2 to 5 minutes while a fan runs; expect stinging around 2 to 3 out of 10.
- 4
Neutralize
The peel is neutralized or self-neutralizes, then moisturizer and SPF go on before you leave.
- 5
The week after
Light flaking runs days 2 to 4; no picking, and no retinoids or acids until the skin settles, about a week.
Risks, stated plainly
Honest list, not fine print. Every one of these is part of the consent conversation at your exam.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the main risk in deeper skin tones; the mitigation is a lower first strength, titrated up across the series.
- Stinging while the acid is on and redness for a few hours after.
- Flaking or patchy crusting for several days, more if your skin was retinoid-primed; report everything you used in the prior week so contact time is set accordingly.
- Cold sore reactivation around the mouth if you carry HSV; flag it in intake.
- Salicylic peels are skipped if you have a salicylate (aspirin) allergy.
- A peel taken deeper than intended can wound and scar; this is why the endpoint is watched on your skin, not run off a timer alone.
The evidence
- A 2008 split-face trial of 20 acne patients compared 30 percent glycolic against 30 percent salicylic peels: both cut lesion counts significantly over the series, with the salicylic side holding its result better between visits.
- A 2002 study of 40 melasma patients found serial glycolic peels added measurable pigment improvement over the same topical regimen alone.
- The 2017 ASDS Guidelines Task Force consensus reviewed the safety record and found no evidence to justify withholding superficial peels from patients currently or recently on isotretinoin, retiring the old 6-month rule at this depth.
Straight answers
- Does it hurt?
- It stings for the 2 to 5 minutes the acid is on, around 2 to 3 out of 10 with a fan running, then quits almost immediately once neutralized. No numbing is needed.
- Can I peel while on isotretinoin?
- For superficial peels, yes, under physician judgment: the 2017 ASDS consensus found no evidence to justify delaying them during or right after isotretinoin. Medium and deep peels are a different conversation. Dr. Mueller confirms at your visit that your skin barrier is ready.
- What does it cost?
- A peel is $150, itemized on the pricing page; nothing is added at checkout. The first-visit exam is $0.
- Will I actually peel like in the videos?
- Usually not. Superficial peels cause fine flaking on days 2 to 4, sometimes none at all; dramatic sheeting is a deep-peel phenomenon. The result comes from the turnover reset underneath, not from how the shedding looks.
- Is it safe for darker skin?
- Superficial peels are used across all skin tones; the real risk is post-peel hyperpigmentation, so deeper tones start at lower concentrations with shorter contact times and titrate up. Salicylic acid has a long record in darker skin.
- Peel or light laser resurfacing?
- Overlapping targets, different mechanisms and price points. The laser pass removes a measured 10 micrometers with light; the peel dissolves the surface chemically and costs less per visit. For active acne the peel usually comes first; for sun damage and fine lines the laser has stronger measured data.